An onion can be a kitchen staple, a gift or a decoration. At Bern’s Zibelemärit (onion market), it takes on all three roles: plaited into strings, arranged in wreaths, adorned with dried flowers. Pale and red onions become objects in which farming and urban festive culture meet.
On Monday, 23 November 2026, the market returns to the Obere Altstadt (upper Old Town), Waisenhausplatz and Bundesplatz. It is organised by the City of Bern, with its local and trade police responsible. For a long November weekend, its particular appeal lies in getting to know a city through its relationship with the surrounding countryside: through food, trade and a Monday with a rhythm all its own.
From winter provisions to festive decoration
The onion plait shows just how much creativity an everyday food can hold. Bern Welcome describes a range stretching from large plaits to small, decorated versions. Alongside them are wreaths and figures. The onion remains recognisable as a vegetable, even when it has long since become a souvenir.
This combination of practicality and decoration fits the market’s history. The former Martinimesse offered an opportunity to buy provisions for winter. According to the city’s historical account, from the mid-19th century onwards, women farmers from Seeland and the Fribourg region came to Bern around St Martin’s Day with vegetables. As grocery shops and department stores emerged, the fair declined in importance; the Zibelemärit remained.
The much-told story of the city fire of 1405 makes for a more memorable tale: helpers from Fribourg were supposedly granted the right to sell their onions in Bern as a gesture of thanks. The city notes that there is no evidence for this account. Its development from the vegetable trade around the Martinimesse offers a more convincing explanation of today’s market.
A city between shopping and celebration
Other goods join the onions: textiles, jewellery, toys and ceramics. The ceramics stalls recall the former Chachelimärit, the pottery market. The connection continues on the plate, too. Traditional dishes include Zibelechueche (onion tart), cheese tart and onion soup.
The market is changing, however. The dossier on living traditions, updated in 2024, documents a decline in the number of stalls; onion sellers most recently accounted for only part of the overall range of goods. Today, the celebration thrives as much on the fair as on the vegetable trade.
Local customs include visits before work or school and confetti battles. Getting up early therefore certainly does not mean having the stalls to yourself. Even the early hours are part of the city’s public life. This is precisely what makes it a cultural reason to travel: shopping, the school run and celebration come together.
Arrive on Sunday or set off early on Monday?
The city’s event page lists the official hours for 2026 as 6am to 6pm; according to the same page, the first sales take place at around 4am. This information is current as of 8 November 2026. Anyone wishing to visit the market before daybreak is best advised to plan an overnight stay from Sunday to Monday. That way, the start of the visit does not depend on a long-distance journey through the night.
For visitors from nearby, a day trip by train remains a sensible alternative. The main railway station is right in the city centre, within walking distance of the market. Arriving later in the morning suits a visit focused on goods and food. Those seeking the market’s early rhythm gain more flexibility by arriving on Sunday.
Under the current arrangements, overnight guests at accommodation establishments within the city of Bern receive the Bern-Ticket for travel in Libero zones 100/101 during their stay. For this November weekend, what matters most is the extra time: arrive on Sunday, set off early on Monday – and get to know Bern through an onion.
Original reviewed by the editors · 8 November 2026
