Between Hamburg, Lübeck and Schwerin lies a landscape where the lake is not the only star. At Schaalsee, bays and reed beds interlock with fens, wet meadows, beech woods, pastures and fields. In early winter, this mosaic becomes easier to take in: fewer leaves, short days and waterbirds resting on the sheltered lakes. For an unhurried nature holiday explored on foot, Zarrentin makes a sensible base.
Nature on a human scale
The UNESCO biosphere reserve covers 310 square kilometres and was designated in 2000. A biosphere reserve is more than a refuge for wilderness. Its core zones are intended to develop with as little disturbance as possible, while across most of the area the aim is to conserve nature while allowing the region to develop sustainably. At Schaalsee, farming and villages are therefore as much a part of the landscape as fens and near-natural forests.
The history of Germany’s division has also helped shape nature here: the former inner-German border ran through the lake. The landscape close to it remained difficult to access for many years; today, the history of the border is part of the region’s identity. At the same time, land use remains an issue. The German Commission for UNESCO points to past nutrient inputs from agriculture and projects to improve water quality. The reserve thus also tells the story of the demanding task of reconciling nature conservation with a working rural landscape.
A fen trail and winter visitors
In Zarrentin, a circular walk through the protected calcareous fen begins behind the PAHLHUUS information centre. The boardwalk lets visitors experience this sensitive habitat without having to walk across the fen itself. The short walk can be combined with a detour to the lakeshore or into town. PAHLHUUS provides information about nature and the region; check opening hours in advance, as they can vary seasonally.
Those with more time can turn their attention to Kirchensee. The biosphere reserve’s ranger recommendation describes a circular walk taking in both lakes, an old tree-lined avenue and a fen. Waterbirds can be observed here in winter. Binoculars and warm clothing are sensible kit at this time of year; sightings cannot, of course, be planned. Take particular care around resting birds along the shores: stay on designated paths and do not disturb wildlife.
Getting there and staying
There is no Deutsche Bahn railway station within the biosphere reserve itself. The reserve authority lists Hagenow-Land, Gadebusch, Rehna and Ratzeburg as possible destination stations, with onward travel provided by regional bus operators. PAHLHUUS in Zarrentin can also be reached by scheduled bus or VLP on-demand bus. The best connection depends on the day you travel: check the timetable and, where applicable, the on-demand bus booking requirements in advance.
Schaalsee rewards those who prefer to understand a landscape through its individual habitats rather than tick off as many sights as possible in a day: fen, reeds, woodland and pasture all lie close together here. Anyone expecting a packed cultural or evening programme will find less choice in early winter. The reward lies in the changing scale of the experience – from the boardwalk through the fen to the sweeping view across the water.
At a glance
- Best time to visit: The colder months are ideal for seeing winter visitors on the lakes; spring and summer reveal other sides of the landscape.
- Getting there: No railway station within the reserve. Possible destination stations are Hagenow-Land, Gadebusch, Rehna and Ratzeburg, with onward connections by bus, including some on-demand services. Check connections for your day of travel.
- Highlights: The calcareous fen and PAHLHUUS in Zarrentin, winter birdwatching at Kirchensee, and a landscape of lakes, fens and farmed land.
- One-day tip: Combine PAHLHUUS and the fen trail in Zarrentin; if time allows, add the circular walk around Kirchensee.
- Tourism organisation and biosphere reserve: schaalsee.de.
Original reviewed by the editors · 11 November 2026
